Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Riobamba to Rainforest, Andes to Amazon

I know it's been a while, but here I am, alive and very well! These past weeks have been a whirlwind, as always. We've made two trips so far- to see the Andes on one and the Amazon on the other, and each have been spectacular.
Our first trip began with a bus ride to Riobamba, an interesting city that I would like more time to get to know. On our way we had some interesting stops concerning environmental considerations in the area. Pine tree reforestation, a huge volcanic boulder moved many kilometers by lahar (a slushy mixture of glacial melt, mud, and debris), a lake in a volcanic crater with no apparent bottom, and rows of rose greenhouses guarded by barbed wire were a few. And so much agriculture! The hills were a patchwork of crops, potatoes growing on steep slopes and people collecting them.
We continued on to Riobamba, a city with a small town feel that I would like more time to explore. And it had great statues, too, like all the towns of the area. It was dark and cold when we arrived at Achikñan, a Kichwa community run hostel near Chimborazo. It was cozy and nice, and the food was soo good- all grown locally. It reminded me of my farmer market meals at home, so fresh and delicious! We talked a bit to the community members running the place- they began the hostel because in recent years the land had been overused from fertilizers to increase productivity. In addition, they accepted assistance from a Protestant American run development group, World Vision, to start up a milk and cheese business that has helped the community tremendously. The community has its own grade school also, taught in a combination of Kichwa and Spanish. Later in my cabin I talked with the head of the community by the fire about the community, language, culture, agriculture, how he got to be. Poor guy, he runs it all! I cannot imagine the responsibility.
The next day we headed up to Chimborazo for a long hike and for me, to enjoy the swirling clouds and jumping around on the rocks. We ended for a late lunch at a nice restaurant (as usual) in an unbelievably beautiful valley, where some of my peers proceeded to accost the poor alpacas. That night they surprised me with a birthday cake- finally I am out of those awful teenage years. I know everything will be easier now. ;)
The next day we spent mostly on a bus searching for the cloud forest, but I did not mind too much for the beautiful view from the window, and it was worth it. The paramo, the Andean forest, and the cloud forest were all so beautiful. The next day was devoted to Cotopaxi, and tired as we all were from travel, we trekked up the steep path to the refuge on a volcano long overdue to blow its top. From there it was back to Quito for a week of classes until we left for our next journey to Tiputini Biodiversity Station in the northeast rainforest of Ecuador.
The trip there was again long- first plane to Coca, a strange town, then boat on the Napo river to a Petroleum Security Station. We took a chiva (two story open air bus) to our next boat ride on the Tiputini river, arriving at the station after about 8 hours of travel. The facilities were beautiful and rustic, and the area was so quiet and wild. I fell in love with the rainforest- the sounds, the smells, the humidity, the unknown. As I learn more, I am more and more by it. At the station we hiked, wildlife watched, chatted with the researchers about their endeavors, and swam in the latte-like waters. Tiputini has the smallest monkey, the pygmy marmoset, which I got to see, and so many other things. Our guide, Ramiro, shared with us some of the indigenous uses of plants, stories of the forest (the ghost forest people that take children, called sachiruna), the wildlife. Again, I saw so many beautiful and interesting things. One night I decided to lop my hair off, (just a little, no worries), so I had some friends help outside of my cabin and finished it up on our night boat ride with a pocketknife. Just one of those things you have to do, you know...now my hair is somewhere in the Amazon, floating along, or is nesting material for some bird. Hey, I do my best to give back.
And then we returned to Coca to catch our plane out, but of course the rain started coming down in buckets and our flight had to wait for the morning. We explored the town a little- a strange place of shanty shops, peluquerias (haircut places), and lonely bars lit with dim green lights, containing a few men beckoning us in. It is the capital of the province, mainly because it is the gateway to the oil blocs of the Oriente, the rainforest. You could not tell though- there is a weird, uncomfortable vibe about the town. Our hotel, Hotel La Mision, was equally unsettling. Monkeys ran around, using people (including me for a good part of the time) for additional ambulatory perches, and other wild animals were stuck in small cages, pacing. It was especially depressing after seeing the same in the jungle, wild. My friend Eileen and I spent a good hour or two trying to console a young night creature, holding it in our laps as it tested our fingers for its mother's milk. Workers at the hotel passed, saying, "isn't it cute?" We didn't respond.
Now we are back in Quito, back to classes for a few days, and we made it in time for the big game today (soccer, of course) against Colombia- I just learned we tied! I still have a hard time understanding the soccer system here, as well as the enthusiasm for it.
Saturday we go to a condor refuge near Otavalo, a town known for its handicrafts. Here I come to bargain! I love it, I am comfortable in that market setting. And Sunday we go to the Galapagos for our 3 week long study- it is passing so quickly!
And the last bit of news- pictures! I am in the process of posting them as I type this.
Well, I hope everyone is well as always, ciao for now!
Te vayas bien,
allison
P.S. I was in a commercial here that was recorded at my house, eating dinner, and they made me spread mustard on my salad ( I still don't understand why, exactly...) My dreams of fame have finally been acheived- I am the famous gringa of Quito!

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